Savitri Savitri, Nuning Yanti Damayanti, Yan Yan Sunarya, Dian Widiawati

EXPLORATION OF JELAMI TECHNIQUES USING NATURAL DYES OF TINGI WOOD (CERIOPS TAGAL) AND JASMINE (JASMINUM SAMBAC) IN ATBM SILK WEAVING FABRIC INTO ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY TEXTILES

Introduction

Exploration of jelami techniques using natural dyes of tingi wood (ceriops tagal) and jasmine (jasminum sambac) in atbm silk weaving fabric into environmentally friendly textiles. Explore Jelami technique with tingi wood & jasmine natural dyes on ATBM silk for eco-friendly textiles. Innovate sustainable textile production, reducing chemical pollution.

Abstract

This paper discusses the results of research related to exploration and innovation in utilizing the potential of nature and environmentally friendly technology in creating textile motifs through the Jelami technique (Natural Footprint), which is a way of transferring traces of motifs and colors on fabric, using jasmine flowers as a motif builder and natural dyes of high wood as a form of color traces. This innovation is related to the rapid progress of Indonesia's textile industry, which is considered positive. Still, there are problems with environmental pollution caused by the increasing use of environmentally unfriendly materials, namely chemicals, which are very harmful to the ecosystem of human life and biodiversity. To address this issue, it is essential to anticipate potential problems by exploring alternatives in the textile industry's production process one alternative is research on the use of environmentally friendly materials. The method used is exploratory qualitative research. The initial stage is observation, literature study, and documentation, then the stage is determining jasmine flowers (Jasminum sambac) and natural dyes from high wood (Ceriobs candolleana) applied to ATBM silk fabrics through the jelami technique. The next stage is to experiment and explore the process of the jelami technique on fabrics to get a standard formulation to produce jasmine motifs that are consistent in shape and color. The stages of applying and designing motifs with jelami techniques use a craft creation approach (Gustami, 2006), namely the design, embodiment, and evaluation stages. Munsell's theory expresses color in three dimensions: taste, value and intensity. The result of the study is the novelty of jasmine motifs with natural dyes of high wood through the process of jelami techniques in the form of textiles to be applied to a variety of used objects that have high economic value and are environmental friendly    

Review

This paper presents a timely and relevant exploration into sustainable textile production, specifically focusing on the "Jelami technique" (Natural Footprint) to create textile motifs using natural dyes from Tingi wood and jasmine flowers on ATBM silk fabric. The research addresses a critical issue within the rapidly expanding Indonesian textile industry: the environmental pollution caused by conventional chemical dyes. By proposing and investigating an alternative, environmentally friendly approach, the authors demonstrate a commitment to innovation that aligns with global efforts towards ecological sustainability. The qualitative, exploratory methodology, involving observation, literature review, and experimental application, provides a foundational understanding of this novel technique. While the abstract effectively outlines the research's motivation and general approach, several areas could benefit from further elaboration to strengthen the paper's overall impact and replicability. The description of the "Jelami technique" as a "way of transferring traces" is clear, but details on its precise execution and how the "standard formulation" for consistent jasmine motifs was achieved remain somewhat opaque. A more detailed account of the experimental parameters, including dye concentrations, mordanting processes (if any), and application methods, would enhance the methodology's rigor. Furthermore, while Munsell's theory is mentioned for color expression, its specific application in evaluating the results—particularly in assessing the desired consistency in shape and color—is not fully articulated, leaving questions about the objective criteria used for success. Despite these minor points, the research offers a promising contribution to the field of sustainable textiles. The novelty of combining jasmine motifs with Tingi wood natural dyes via the Jelami technique on ATBM silk fabric, resulting in textiles with potential for "high economic value" and environmental friendliness, is compelling. This work provides a valuable proof-of-concept for harnessing natural resources and traditional weaving methods in an innovative, eco-conscious manner. The findings suggest a viable pathway for reducing the textile industry's environmental footprint, opening avenues for further research into commercial viability, colorfastness, and scalability of these natural dyeing techniques for diverse applications.

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